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Written and Photographed by Andy Barson

Visitors 0000801 to 21 November 2008

Introduction

This is a gallery of pictures showing the architectural marvels of Stockport in Cheshire, on the outskirts of Manchester, North West England, for those unlucky enough ( or should that be lucky enough ? ) not to have visited. My qualifications are residential rather than architectural, but having lived here for 20 years I think I know enough to comment.

Stockport is like a bag of multi-coloured bricks that was emptied out into a steep-sided valley. There is no one theme apart from a sense of industrial heritage. Kind of working class but with aspirations. Work hard and you can move into a big house. The Cotswolds may have soft, honey-coloured stone but up north we have hard, red brick. Economical enough to build factories, warehouses and a truly huge railway viaduct. But amongst these industrial gems are scattered some truly awful architectural abominations that were thrown together because they were (a) cheap to build and (b) quite trendy at the time, without any concept of 'fitting in' with the surroundings. Which is a pity because Stockport is close enough to the Peak District hills to have some symbiotic relationship with the great outdoors. Take the buildings of Stockport and drop them onto a great plain with a square transport grid and a handful of roundabouts and you would have a nowhere town in Sleepyville, Dullshire. But spread up and down the 240 million year old sandstone cliffs they take on a more majestic presence. Buildings jostle for light like sunflowers in a overgrown garden. They shout 'look at me!', I'm the true centre of Stockport.

Stockport is a focus for people travelling. Whenever a steep valley blocks the path of least resistance then everything squashes together for fear of being left out. The river Goyt and the river Tame join in Stockport to form the Mersey which flows into the Irish Sea at Liverpool. A railway viaduct carries the Intercity trains between London and Manchester, and then past the Lake District, Carlisle and through to Glasgow. The great West Coast line. Stockport is only 8 miles by road to Manchester International Airport which with two runways carries most of the air traffic in the North West. The red, sandstone cliffs were carved out to make way for the M60 orbital motorway as it is now called, which snakes its way through the valley from South Manchester towards the reservoirs of Audenshaw. Buses ply their way up and down the busy A6 arterial route into the centre of Manchester. Stockport has a 'people busy doing things and going places' air about it. The not-quite-a-city achieved great things in the past, wobbled slightly when its cinema closed, but then surged forward with confidence and optimism for the future. New buildings, new entertainments, perhaps even, shock horror, a destination for tourists. Yes, there is a tourist information office. Not the busiest place in town but at least it puts out a clear message that it is the sort of place people could visit. If it was raining and there was nothing else to do. No, that's too harsh. The intrepid explorer of Stockport must surely visit the Air Raid Shelter ( Stockport's very own underground bunker carved into stone ), the Hat Museum ( well somebody has to make them ), Staircase House, Vernon Park ( a sea of tranquillity above the smoke ), the famous market, the Art Gallery, the pubs with locally brewed beer and a short hop away, the black and white splendour of Bramhall Hall. Not forgetting that 20 minutes down the A6 is perhaps the finest country park in England, Lyme Park. Also within easy reach is Quarry Bank Mill at Styal and Etherow Country Park in Marple.

But it still has some way to go. There is the battle for land between industry/commerce/cars and the residential, traffic-calming, greenness of parks and ponds. It has yet to cover the spires and chimneys with solar panels and windmills. It is knee-deep in the grease and chip fat of take-aways but lacks the café-restaurant culture of say Altrincham or Hale. Fashion is a hoodie and tracksuit bottoms. But perhaps most of all it needs a defining architectural style, something to say this is what Stockport is and will be in future. If I was in charge I would build a tower of red brick and glass for the sole purpose of taking people up in a lift to view the valley. Only by seeing what we have from above will people care what we do on the ground.

Mini-History ( as if you care )

Stockport was originally a Saxon village. Although nobody knows for sure, its name could have come from Stoc, a stockaded place or castle and Port, a wood. So a castle in the wood ? Agricola recognised its strategical advantages and fortified Stockport to guard the passage of the Mersey in AD79. Strangely, though both Cheadle and Bramhall were referenced in the Domesday Book of 1086, Stockport itself received no mention ! It did have a market though, well before it was officially granted in 1260 AD. In the 2001 census, the whole borough of Stockport had a population of 284,528.

Magic Moment ( you care now )

Being listed as No. 12 in the Idler book of Crap Towns, published by Boxtree 2003. The 50 worst places to live in the UK.

Quote 1: Stockport is a small town in South Manchester. Much of Engels' research for Marx's Communist Manifesto was based on the appalling working conditions in the town's hat mills. And to be honest it's gone down hill ever since.

Quote 2: The overriding 'look' for Stockport's locals is a shaven head with optional Fila cap/visor perched on top, a Reebok shellsuit, the legs of which are tucked into a pair of overpowering patterned socks and a pair of Rockport, Timberland or Kicker boots. Gold jewellery is popular, usually incorporating sovereigns and/or marijuana leaf motifs. The male uniform is fairly similar.

Quote 3: Entertainment includes avoiding being glassed in one of the town's many pubs, avoiding being stabbed on the infamous 192 bus and avoiding leaving your house as much as possible.

What a nerve ! At least one of the residents made an effort to enter the competition.

Useful Links

Yes, Stockport has made it into the bible of everything, Wikipedia.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stockport

The official photo site.
interactive.stockport.gov.uk/pictures/

Perhaps you are interested in the lost Stockport canal ?
homepage.ntlworld.com/nb.jemsabi/index.html

Vintage Photo Archive
www.stockportexpress.co.uk/photoexhibition/timespast/

For the visitor...

My Bonus Photos

Aerial Photo

Click here for a large aerial photo of Stockport.

Picture Details

All pictures below were taken by the author with a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ5. Click on the picture to load a high resolution 1280 x 960 jpeg. Please ask my permission before using the pictures.

Contact Details

Got anything interesting to say about Stockport ? Then email Andy right now. The 19th Century philosopher Friedrich Engels wrote in 1844 that Stockport was "renowned as one of the duskiest, smokiest holes in the whole of the industrial area".

---------- The Gallery ----------

NEW PICTURES OF STOCKPORT 2008 - CLICK HERE


All routes lead here. Under the arches and over the valley.

Stockport's railway viaduct is Western Europe's biggest brick structure and a supreme example of Victorian engineering. It is 34m high and 11 million bricks were used in its construction – laid end to end they would stretch 1500 miles. It took 600 workers to build it and it opened in 1842. The 27 arches were admired and painted by L.S. Lowry.

Train-spotters' paradise at Stockport station. Start scribbling those numbers down.

Stockport bus station. Buses sneak through the mouse hole every few minutes.

The size of the arches can be clearly seen as they tower above the Crown Inn.

Railway arches, east side.

Railway arches, west side.

A fire escape into the Stygian Abyss.

The vertical cacophony of architectural styles.

In early spring the snow glistens on the hills behind Pear Mill.

Pear Mill is the one with the pear on it. For no reason other than there could have been a nearby pear orchard.

Portwood roundabout, the home of 24 hour Tesco.

Mills once busy with the clatter of Spinning Jennys are now furniture showrooms for discount 3-piece suites.

St. Mary's R.C. church perched on the red, sandstone cliffs away from the squealing tyres of the M60.

Camera at GPS coords latitude 53deg 23min 56.0secs north, longitude 2deg 9mins 10.0secs west. 182 miles to London, 119 miles to Carlisle

Along the A6 towards Hazel Grove and the hills. Past St. George's church ( 1897, designed by Austin and Paley ) with its beacon of a spire.

A long time ago all factories looked like this. Cooper Street.

Some new housing on long-dead hat factories. This is the new estate of Hatters Court.

You don't have to walk far in Stockport to find some neglected backwaters. Opposite the Sun & Castle pub.

The Salvation Army building on the corner of Mottram and Middle Hillgate. The 'Hillgates' were known for their heavy drinking, fighting and depravity. So what's changed ? Nearby is Toll Bar Street - this used to be the main route into Manchester and dosh was extracted. This scam is about to be brought back under the guise of 'road taxation'.

The Parish Church of St Thomas, AD 1825. Hard to believe but when it was built, this site was surrounded by green fields. Now you can walk past without seeing it ! Construction began in 1822 to celebrate the Duke of Wellington's victory over Napolean Bonaparte at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. There were early reports of body-snatching to satisfy the demands of medical students ! It's now looking a bit glum.

Stockport Town Hall was built by the architect Arthur Brumwell Thomas in the Renaissance style. Now known as the 'Wedding Cake' because of its ornate, white façade. Completed in 1907 at a cost of £56,881. Opened for business in 1908. Has the odd face-lift to remove the grimy emissions of cars, buses and trucks. Like teeth, you can never keep them totally white.

The more contrasty and dare I say elegant, back view of the Town Hall. Cream and red goes so well together.

View down Greek Street towards the green roof of the Armoury.

The Armoury from Shaw Heath roundabout.

Opposite the town hall is the site of the now defunct Stockport Infirmary. Now a business redevelopment, sick people head for Stepping Hill further down the A6 towards Hazel Grove.

Who would have thought that Stockport is the Manchester home of Lamborghini ? We are definitely enthusiastic about cars - some say Stockport is the car crime capital of the UK.

Looking down the A6 towards the Mersey and the M60. On the left the slightly weathered Grand Central Square featuring a cinema, swimming pool and bowling alley.

So how many towns have a hat museum ?All the finest top hats used to be made in Stockport e.g. Christy & Co. We are proud to have invented the term 'Mad as a Hatter' after mercury was found to be a bit dangerous.

A statue to one of Stockport's great heros - Richard Cobden. He was the Stockport MP who began the fight to repeal the hated Corn Laws in the mid 19th century and free the working-class from poverty. A great advocate of free trade, he succeeded in his goal in 1846 when Sir Robert Peel's government abolished the Laws. A statue was erected in 1886 in lasting tribute. A great campaigner against child poverty and exploitation which was rife in the cotton mills.

Stockport Baptist Church, just off St. Petersgate.

A view through the Coronation Street-style terraces towards the towers of Lancashire hill.

I prefer red brick to concrete any day. Off the roundabout at Piccadilly.

The heart of higgledy-piggledy Stockport, from Cooper's Brow towards the Robbies brewery.

A view across the rooftops towards St. Mary's Parish Church.The chancel dates from the 14th century but the building was rebuilt in 1817.

The start of Lower Hillgate, the trendy artists' quarter. At best you emerge with a tatoo.

The bridge across to the market at Little Underbank.

The famous timber landmark of the White Lion. Now traffic-calmed and pedestrianised. Unless you are careful you get a bollard through your car like an automotive kebab.

Stockport isn't short of parking places. Unless you don't wish to pay for the privilege of shopping in the town. Hence the irresistible pull of the Trafford Centre on the other side of Manchester.

Stockport precinct. A mixture of the stylish and the carbuncle ugly. The clock tower is like a drop platform for an atomic weapons test. Only less cheery.

At least some glass is starting to lift the sixties oppression. One day we will be able to look through a glass floor at the swirling Mersey, lit by fairy lights. Dream on.

The spectacular Art Deco façade of Stockport Plaza. Inside there is a Wurlitzer organ. Once a bingo hall, now a theatre and cinema.

A view across Hollywood Park towards Edgeley and St. Matthews Church where friendly folk live very close to each other. Almost Beverly Hills.

A view across Hollywood Park, the parched grass being seared by the summer heat of 2006.

The back alleyways of Edgeley. High density housing for the mills and factories of the Industrial Revolution.

Edgeley shopping precinct. Discount furniture is one of the defining cultural moments of late 20th century Stockport which is still thriving today.

The beaming towers of Lancashire Hill behind the main entertainment centre of the area.

The pretty stone church on the banks of the motorway.

The splendid Pendlebury Hall. Now a nursing home but once an orphanage and a red cross hospital during WWI.

Yes, Cairo may have pyramids but so does Stockport. Once strobed the sky with a big green laser which made the airport approach a little more exciting.

Now home to the Co-op bank. Stockport may as well have a bit of Egyptian architecture in the so-called King's Valley. But the King ran out of money.

Ah, the tranquil waters of the nascent Mersey. Think I'll pass on a dip though. Might get snagged on a supermarket trolley.

A bridge vista, the essence of bricky Stockport.

On a summer's day this could be the Mersey riviera. All I need is a stripy deckchair and a flask and sandwiches.

After horses came the internal combustion engine.

St. Mary's at midday from Corporation street.

The site of the famous Strawberry studios where 10cc recorded hits such as I'm Not In Love. Named after the Beatles' song 'Strawberry Fields Forever'. Opened in 1967 and went into decline during the nineties. Famous artists who worked there include Mary Hopkin, Wayne Fontana, Herman's Hermits, Barclay James Harvest, Neil Sedaka, The Bay City Rollers, Leonard Cohen, Justin Hayward, Hotlegs, XTC and Sir Paul McCartney.

 

Stockport covered market surrounded by an eclectic mix of old, new and restored.

Staircase house, one of Stockport's newer attractions. It's a house - with a staircase.

A more modern Cheltenham-esque attempt at a clock tower.

On June 4th, 1967, a plane crashed in the Hopes Carr area of Stockport, killing 72 passengers.The disaster happened when a British Midland flight crashed whilst trying to land at Manchester Airport. The plane fell out of the sky when engine failure led to a loss of control.

The grimy end of Hopes Carr.

The smart showroom of Peter Carlson selling aspirational furniture.

The golden M has conquered Stockport in 2 locations. This one on the A6.

The completed facelift of Stockport railway station.

Signal Box No. 2. Still with big Victorian levers.

The backside of Grand Central Square showing Brannigans and the pool.

A low cost flight into Manchester airport drops its undercarriage over Stockport.

Stockport County.

Stockport County Football Club. A.k.a 'the hatters'.

The pitch has been watered in the drought.

An old terrace in Edgeley.